S.P.Q.R

Buongiorno from Italia!

It's midnight and I am typing on an iPad, so I reckon this will be pretty short... so here's a synopsis of our trip so far!

We came in yesterday and after quickly realizing we knew no Italian (I have been laughed at more than once!) we dropped our bags at the hotel and swiftly made for an evening walk across town. after passing the moonlit Forum and winding our way to the Campo de Fiori, we popped into a local joint for our first pizza. Success! An antipasti platter followed by a pair of paper-thin pizzas made us happy... but not as happy as when we followed up with an armful of fresh Italian pastries (literally the best connoli I have ever had) AND some fantastic gelato. 

We also walked through the Christmas market at Piazza Navona (So many Piazzas...) which was an ancient racetrack (from 80 AD). A fountain in the middle had statues representing four rivers and an obelisk taken from Egypt. 

From there we walked up past the Pantheon, which was truly stunning at night. I was blown away by its old-ness... I suppose I was expecting the facade to be all shiny white marble, but instead it was pock marked and yellowed; stark Greek letters stood out nonetheless. Very excited to go back tomorrow for a tour inside! 

Heading north, we passed an obelisk stolen by Marcus Aurelius after overthrowing Antony and Cleopatra.... we took some pictures by the Trevi Fountain, a massive, gushing cascade with obligatory marble  superhumans... Finally we ended up at the Piazza Spagna, and the Spanish Steps. Most notable... lots of streets decked for Christmas and dozens of peddlers selling laser toys; yummy food to kick off the grand adventure; and best of all, spending time with my amazing friends Tyler and Rachael from NC State! (awww...)

This morning we woke up exhausted, but pushed ourselves wearily to breakfast in order to make our 8:30 entrance at the Borghese Gallery. Borghese was a patron (indeed, discovered)of Bernini, thus building a villa to showcase the artist's work. The sculptures "Apollo e Dafne" and "David" were particularly striking to us, especially the intense focus captured in the latter subject's slingshot-ready face. As far as paintings go, I really liked "Amor Sacre e Amor Profano" by Titian and "La Bottega di un Antiquario" by Fracken Il Giovane. Some of Raphael's work was also there, but we were less enthusiastic.

Moving on, we marched north in the lame drizzle to the Catacombe di Priscilla, where we walked among the now empty tombs of 2nd to 5th century Romans. The catacombs originally housed 40,000 bodies in the soft but stable earth; The first two of three levels are now empty but the lowest remains unexcavated. We were only allowed to stay for 30 minutes because the ground emits radioactive radon, but it was still enough to wind among the labyrinth of barrack style clay bunks and see some of the few remaining decorations. 

After a lunch of pizza bread in a park (we were the only ones there!) we walked and walked back past the Borghese Gallery, through the accompanying gardens (Extra credit for translating Ασκληπιωι Σωτηρι, the text on a mini-temple), we made it to the Piazza del Popolo. A weak exhibition of over 100 nativity scenes left us drowsy, so we hopped on a Metro, grabbed a bite, and recollected before taking on the National Museum of Rome. Yes, our 2nd museum in a day... but we have to make the most of our city passes! To be honest, it was a bust. Get it? haha... anyway, Tyler set off a security alarm while Rachael and I meandered slowly behind. Aside from the great mosaics, I was excited to see an old replica of the discus thrower. I may have imitate it too...

Have you ever wondered if the Romans were actually as toned and fit as they are in the statues? If so, we have a lot to live up to. It makes me want to throw on a shield and grapple with a lion or something. 

Instead of grappling with beasts, we finally went to grapple with dinner: a nice meal at Il Brillo Parlante. We made quick work of a 7-flight cheese platter before homemade pasta arrived. Personally, I think my pasta and (fresh homemade) pesto was the best. We decided to let dinner settle at the table, which gave us each an appetite for dessert. Again, I won with what we decided was an upscale moon pie: crispy wafer layered twice with fresh chantilly cream, topped with rich chocolate and served along side those fancy sugar lattices they always make on Food Network baking competitions. The meal was delicious and the service friendly and great. I highly recommend it. 

Tomorrow we are off to Ancient Rome. My gladiator match is at 9:40, so perhaps I will have the chance to take on that lion after all!